Archive for the ‘Environment’ Category
Joe Smith asked:
What is Integrated Pest Management? You’ve probably heard the term before. It’s one of the most important subjects in the practice of Organic Pest Control, and contains methods that no gardener or landscaper should be without if they intend to stay away from harsh pesticides.
Simply speaking, Organic Pest Control and Integrated Pest Management (IPM) are all about the idea that chemicals should be the very last resort in caring for your lawn or garden. IPM is a multi-faceted approach to doing this effectively. Listed below are some of the various techniques one may use if they intend to use IPM and organic pest control techniques to their fullest:
1. Your soil health is by far one of the most important variables. When a plant is healthy from healthy soil, it’s more able to effectively keep bugs and pests away. Think of plants as having immune systems, much as people do. If a person does get essential vitamins and nutrients, his/her health can deteriorate and that person may suffer from diseases and illnesses. Plants are much the same in that respect.
2. Instead of using chemicals, allow the ecosystem to do its own work. Using harsh pesticides often kill the pests’ predators, such as spiders and ladybugs.
3. Pruning unhealthy sections of your plants by hand keeps nutrients from the soil going to the healthy parts of the plant, instead of having to spread the nutrients to unhealthy sections. While doing this, make sure to not leave “stubs” hanging out from the plant. Pests find homes in these stubs, so make sure to prune flush with the stalk or stem.
4. Weed as much as possible, preferably by hand. Weeds suck essential nutrients from the soil, which keeps your plants from receiving the nutrients it needs to survive and fight off pests.
5. Start your planting earlier in the year before the bug season starts. This will allow your plants to be better suited for any type of infestation that may occur. A more mature plant would be better able to fend off an attack.
6. The best type of plant is a plant native to your local ecosystem. Don’t plant palm trees in Vermont; you’ll only disappoint yourself with the results. A native species is better suited to the local environment and pests that naturally occur in that locale.
7. Keep a close eye on your plants as they grow. Stay involved, and don’t be afraid to get dirty. You’ll be much more aware of any pests that may show up.
Good luck with your organic pest control ventures.
Lawn Care Business Marketing Plan
What is Integrated Pest Management? You’ve probably heard the term before. It’s one of the most important subjects in the practice of Organic Pest Control, and contains methods that no gardener or landscaper should be without if they intend to stay away from harsh pesticides.
Simply speaking, Organic Pest Control and Integrated Pest Management (IPM) are all about the idea that chemicals should be the very last resort in caring for your lawn or garden. IPM is a multi-faceted approach to doing this effectively. Listed below are some of the various techniques one may use if they intend to use IPM and organic pest control techniques to their fullest:
1. Your soil health is by far one of the most important variables. When a plant is healthy from healthy soil, it’s more able to effectively keep bugs and pests away. Think of plants as having immune systems, much as people do. If a person does get essential vitamins and nutrients, his/her health can deteriorate and that person may suffer from diseases and illnesses. Plants are much the same in that respect.
2. Instead of using chemicals, allow the ecosystem to do its own work. Using harsh pesticides often kill the pests’ predators, such as spiders and ladybugs.
3. Pruning unhealthy sections of your plants by hand keeps nutrients from the soil going to the healthy parts of the plant, instead of having to spread the nutrients to unhealthy sections. While doing this, make sure to not leave “stubs” hanging out from the plant. Pests find homes in these stubs, so make sure to prune flush with the stalk or stem.
4. Weed as much as possible, preferably by hand. Weeds suck essential nutrients from the soil, which keeps your plants from receiving the nutrients it needs to survive and fight off pests.
5. Start your planting earlier in the year before the bug season starts. This will allow your plants to be better suited for any type of infestation that may occur. A more mature plant would be better able to fend off an attack.
6. The best type of plant is a plant native to your local ecosystem. Don’t plant palm trees in Vermont; you’ll only disappoint yourself with the results. A native species is better suited to the local environment and pests that naturally occur in that locale.
7. Keep a close eye on your plants as they grow. Stay involved, and don’t be afraid to get dirty. You’ll be much more aware of any pests that may show up.
Good luck with your organic pest control ventures.
Lawn Care Business Marketing Plan
Gary Hillery asked:
Spring has sprung in most areas of the country and the ritual of “Spring Cleaning” has begun. Planting flowers, planting plants and prepping our lawns for summer, airing out our houses from the winter, cleaning windows, replacing winter window covers with summer screens are all a part of the spring preparation process. Depending on where you live your ritual may vary but one thing we can all do this spring is go greener. It’s easier than you think.
WEED CONTROL
It happens every spring, weeds begin to grow, EVERYWHERE; in your grass, in your rocks and up through cracks in the sidewalk and driveway. The simplest way to get rid of these pesky plants is to spray them with an herbicide and you’re done. Unfortunately the chemicals in the weed killers are often washed away into our drainage systems and end up in our water supply. Here are three easy ways to go green and control your weed problem
1. Pull by hand. Use a long handle, flat screw driver to dig them out by the root. Not the easiest way but an effective and safe way to get rid of weeds.
2. Pour boiling water on the weeds in the rocks and driveway cracks.
3. Try this interesting weed killer – mix one ounce of white vinegar with one ounce of cheap gin and eight ounces of water, then pour or spray on the weeds.
GREEN UP YOUR LAWN
You can also help control weeds on your lawn by developing strong, healthy root systems. There are a few simple ways to do this that are safe and effective.
1. Mow high – high grass will help shade the weeds and keep them from growing, develop deeper root systems and prevent run off and evaporation of water. If you have a really BIG weed problem mow twice as often for a while. The growing point for weeds in near their tops so continually cutting off the tops will stunt their growth and eventually kill them.
2. Leave the clippings on your lawn. This will add nutrients back into the soil, help maintain moisture and can help strengthen your lawn.
3. Use an organic, slow release fertilizer. Check your local nursery for fertilizer brands that match the needs of your type of soil. You can also log on to Planet Neutral to find information on the Ringer brand of organic fertilizer or Rich Soil for additional ideas on organic lawn care.
4. Get a spring tune up on our mower, especially on the blades. The sharper the blades the easier it is on the grass. A tune up will also help your mower run more efficiently and cut down on emissions in the air. An even better way to go green is to trade in your gas mower for an electric mower. Many states and cities offer exchange programs with discounts for trading in your gas mower for an electric mower. You can check out the options in your area with a simple Google or Yahoo search for “lawn mower exchange program.”
SUMMERIZE YOUR WINDOWS
Nearly half of the heat gain in your home during the summer comes in from your windows, especially those facing east, west and south. The easiest way to cut down on the heat that enters your home is to shade your windows both inside and out.
The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development studies show the most effective way to keep you home cooler in the summer and cut down on energy bills is to block the sun’s heat before it enters the home. Researchers recommend removable shade screens with a low SHADING COEFFICIENT to cover your exterior windows.
Home Depot, Lowes or your local hardware store have do-it-yourself kits that allow you to create screens that fit your windows with a variety of colors and SHADING COEFFICIENTS.
Another more earth-friendly way to shade your windows is with trees, so if you are building a new home or remodeling, look for shade trees that shed their leaves in the winter. This will allow heat to enter in the winter and help heat your home.
Reduce the amount of heat entering your home by using interior window films on the east and west facing windows. You should avoid placing these types of products on the south side because most are permanent and will block heat in the winter. There are a wide variety of products available, although many require professional installation. You can log on to Energy Film for Do-It-Yourself projects that do not require adhesives and can be easily removed.
When it comes to cleaning your home and windows there are several “green” glass cleaner, floor cleaner, and all-purpose cleaner options. Unlike many of the products on the market today, brands like Shaklee and Holy Cow sell products that are not only safer for the environment but safer for your family.
The spring season brings green colors to many parts of the country and you can participate in this green evolution by taking some of the simple steps mentioned above. So please do your part, join with nature, and go green this spring.
Lawn Care Business Marketing Plan
Spring has sprung in most areas of the country and the ritual of “Spring Cleaning” has begun. Planting flowers, planting plants and prepping our lawns for summer, airing out our houses from the winter, cleaning windows, replacing winter window covers with summer screens are all a part of the spring preparation process. Depending on where you live your ritual may vary but one thing we can all do this spring is go greener. It’s easier than you think.
WEED CONTROL
It happens every spring, weeds begin to grow, EVERYWHERE; in your grass, in your rocks and up through cracks in the sidewalk and driveway. The simplest way to get rid of these pesky plants is to spray them with an herbicide and you’re done. Unfortunately the chemicals in the weed killers are often washed away into our drainage systems and end up in our water supply. Here are three easy ways to go green and control your weed problem
1. Pull by hand. Use a long handle, flat screw driver to dig them out by the root. Not the easiest way but an effective and safe way to get rid of weeds.
2. Pour boiling water on the weeds in the rocks and driveway cracks.
3. Try this interesting weed killer – mix one ounce of white vinegar with one ounce of cheap gin and eight ounces of water, then pour or spray on the weeds.
GREEN UP YOUR LAWN
You can also help control weeds on your lawn by developing strong, healthy root systems. There are a few simple ways to do this that are safe and effective.
1. Mow high – high grass will help shade the weeds and keep them from growing, develop deeper root systems and prevent run off and evaporation of water. If you have a really BIG weed problem mow twice as often for a while. The growing point for weeds in near their tops so continually cutting off the tops will stunt their growth and eventually kill them.
2. Leave the clippings on your lawn. This will add nutrients back into the soil, help maintain moisture and can help strengthen your lawn.
3. Use an organic, slow release fertilizer. Check your local nursery for fertilizer brands that match the needs of your type of soil. You can also log on to Planet Neutral to find information on the Ringer brand of organic fertilizer or Rich Soil for additional ideas on organic lawn care.
4. Get a spring tune up on our mower, especially on the blades. The sharper the blades the easier it is on the grass. A tune up will also help your mower run more efficiently and cut down on emissions in the air. An even better way to go green is to trade in your gas mower for an electric mower. Many states and cities offer exchange programs with discounts for trading in your gas mower for an electric mower. You can check out the options in your area with a simple Google or Yahoo search for “lawn mower exchange program.”
SUMMERIZE YOUR WINDOWS
Nearly half of the heat gain in your home during the summer comes in from your windows, especially those facing east, west and south. The easiest way to cut down on the heat that enters your home is to shade your windows both inside and out.
The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development studies show the most effective way to keep you home cooler in the summer and cut down on energy bills is to block the sun’s heat before it enters the home. Researchers recommend removable shade screens with a low SHADING COEFFICIENT to cover your exterior windows.
Home Depot, Lowes or your local hardware store have do-it-yourself kits that allow you to create screens that fit your windows with a variety of colors and SHADING COEFFICIENTS.
Another more earth-friendly way to shade your windows is with trees, so if you are building a new home or remodeling, look for shade trees that shed their leaves in the winter. This will allow heat to enter in the winter and help heat your home.
Reduce the amount of heat entering your home by using interior window films on the east and west facing windows. You should avoid placing these types of products on the south side because most are permanent and will block heat in the winter. There are a wide variety of products available, although many require professional installation. You can log on to Energy Film for Do-It-Yourself projects that do not require adhesives and can be easily removed.
When it comes to cleaning your home and windows there are several “green” glass cleaner, floor cleaner, and all-purpose cleaner options. Unlike many of the products on the market today, brands like Shaklee and Holy Cow sell products that are not only safer for the environment but safer for your family.
The spring season brings green colors to many parts of the country and you can participate in this green evolution by taking some of the simple steps mentioned above. So please do your part, join with nature, and go green this spring.
Lawn Care Business Marketing Plan
James Harris asked:
Lush, green weed free lawns – they are the dream of every homeowner in America, but the price we pay for those luscious grass carpets may be more than the dollars spent on fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides not to mention the hours spent on mowing and trimming. The price may be your health and the health of our children and pets.
A study by Dr. John Peters of the University of Southern California (July 1987 issue of the Journal of the National Cancer Institute) showed that children living in houses where garden pesticide sprays were used on a regular basis faced a risk of contracting leukemia that is 61/2 times greater than normal. Another study published in the October 1991 issue of the same publication showed that dogs whose owners used a herbicide called 2-4-D were twice as likely to develop lymphatic cancer.
At last there is an alternative to chemical based lawn treatments. Leo Malantis, President of Millennium Lawns and a Consultant to the Golf Course Industry states: Fertilizers or Plant Foods alone cannot provide the biological balance to the soil and likewise; no biological solution by itself can maintain a nutritional balance in the soil. The soil is the stomach for the plant and it needs the the soil based organisms to break down the nutrients,to make them available to the plant in a digested form. Since many microbes are killed by herbicides and pesticides, it stand to reason that replacing them should be the first consideration of a fertilization program Malantis states, “The soil can only hold so much food, after that, the excess nutrients are wasted or even worse become toxic to the plants itself. (fertilizer burn) This toxicity will kill the “soil microbes”.
Microbes are necessary in the soil for the bacterial decomposition of roots and stems that create organic matter. The whole chain of microorganisms must work in the soil to break this organic material into humus, which then becomes nitrogen, phosphorus and potash, which the plant takes up as food.
That’s the life cycle in the soil and too many chemicals can wipe it out.” Once your soil becomes lifeless the grass is dependent upon nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash from an outside source – Generally synthetic fertilizers purchased by the homeowner and/or applied by the lawn service companies.
Your lawn has become a “Lawn Junkie” dependent upon chemicals to be green and weed free. These chemicals pose health hazards to our children and pets. The over-application of synthetic chemicals also creates other stress conditions for the turf.
SOIL TOXICITY
All fertilizers and herbicides are water soluble salts. Grass plants are like sponges and will absorb all nutrients available until they become saturated. Once saturated, like a wet sponge, they cannot absorb any more food and the excess nutrients, as much as 60%, will become nutrient run off that pollutes our underground water supply, or will remain tied up in the soil as a salt. This salt build-up prevents the roots from penetrating the soil begin to feed at the surface of the lawn causing a compact soil and mat and thatch.
SOIL COMPACTION
Ideally, a “friable” soil is composed of 45% minerals, 5% organic matter, 25% air and 25% water. Roots in the soil decompose to form the organic matter that is the glue that holds the air and water in the soil. Without organic matter, the soil readily compacts CORE AERATION MYTH “Core aeration is not a solution,” states Malantis. Soil compaction takes place deep in the soil as clay, silt, and sand, lacking organic matter, begins to stratify. When you core aerate you will bring up soil cores that contain weed seeds. Once exposed to surface heat and moisture the weed seeds germinate and grow requiring a chemical herbicide to control them.
MAT AND THATCH
The compact soil now has forced the roots to feed at the surface of the lawn. This mass of roots at the surface is called mat & thatch. Mat & thatch has a number of negative impacts on lawns. First: Mat and thatch limit the rhizome growth and result in a thin lawn. Secondly, weed seeds wilL germinate more readily in a thin sparse lawn, Thirdly: Mat & thatch becomes a breeding ground for insects and disease, DETHATCHING MYTH. Dethatching is another myth that Malantis attacks. “Thatch, as we said before is organic matter. Thatch should be decomposed with enzymes and returned to the soil, not removed to a waste dump.”
ORGANIC-BASED SOLUTIONS
The Millennium Probiotic Lawn Care program uses natural-organic and bio-based formulations to accomplish in three years what it would normally take Mother Nature on hundred years to accomplish. They consist of: Catalytic enzymes which reduce and cleanse the soil of Chemicals; Enzymes that open tight soils and encourage the penetration of air, water and nutrients to stimulate deeper natural root growth; Hormones, minerals that will encourage the plant to heal from wounds and grow aggressively to fill in bare, thin areas, and form dense grass growth; Microorganisms which give life back to soil, promote natural decomposition of mat & thatch, and provide the energy which encourages aggressive root, foliar and rhizome growth; Balanced nutrients that encourage strong turf grass growth while creating an environment not suitable for weed growth.
NATURE’S RHYTHM
“Following Mother Nature’s Rhythm is very critical,” states Malantis. “Each season presents a different set of weather conditions and opportunities that the homeowner should be aware of.
MOWING
Nutrients are converted to food in the leaf by the sun. Photosynthesis- Mowing too short reduces the food supply to the plant. A longer blade also shades and cools the soil, preventing weed germination. Adjust your lawn mower to its highest or second highest level and never cut more that 1/3 off of the blade at a time, avoiding the possibility of the lawn going into shock. It’s better to mow more often and leave the grass clippings on the lawn to decompose and return to the soil as organic matter. Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings decompose rapidly, and do not contribute to mat and thatch.
WATERING
Regular water saturation of the soil is a necessity for deep root growth. Frequent, light watering will result in shallow roots. It is recommended to water about one inch on the surface of the lawn. This can be measured by setting a rain gauge or coffee can on the lawn and timing how long it takes to fill to a one inch level. Lawns should be watered once a week through out the growing season or more frequently if weather is extremely hot for long periods. During dry spells if the lawn cannot be watered regularly, it is better to let lawn go dormant rather than water infrequently.
“The Millennium Probiotic Lawn program will give you a step-by-step guide to grow your lawn intelligently, and in harmony with nature,” says Malantis.
How To Build Auto Lawn Sprinklers
Lush, green weed free lawns – they are the dream of every homeowner in America, but the price we pay for those luscious grass carpets may be more than the dollars spent on fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides not to mention the hours spent on mowing and trimming. The price may be your health and the health of our children and pets.
A study by Dr. John Peters of the University of Southern California (July 1987 issue of the Journal of the National Cancer Institute) showed that children living in houses where garden pesticide sprays were used on a regular basis faced a risk of contracting leukemia that is 61/2 times greater than normal. Another study published in the October 1991 issue of the same publication showed that dogs whose owners used a herbicide called 2-4-D were twice as likely to develop lymphatic cancer.
At last there is an alternative to chemical based lawn treatments. Leo Malantis, President of Millennium Lawns and a Consultant to the Golf Course Industry states: Fertilizers or Plant Foods alone cannot provide the biological balance to the soil and likewise; no biological solution by itself can maintain a nutritional balance in the soil. The soil is the stomach for the plant and it needs the the soil based organisms to break down the nutrients,to make them available to the plant in a digested form. Since many microbes are killed by herbicides and pesticides, it stand to reason that replacing them should be the first consideration of a fertilization program Malantis states, “The soil can only hold so much food, after that, the excess nutrients are wasted or even worse become toxic to the plants itself. (fertilizer burn) This toxicity will kill the “soil microbes”.
Microbes are necessary in the soil for the bacterial decomposition of roots and stems that create organic matter. The whole chain of microorganisms must work in the soil to break this organic material into humus, which then becomes nitrogen, phosphorus and potash, which the plant takes up as food.
That’s the life cycle in the soil and too many chemicals can wipe it out.” Once your soil becomes lifeless the grass is dependent upon nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash from an outside source – Generally synthetic fertilizers purchased by the homeowner and/or applied by the lawn service companies.
Your lawn has become a “Lawn Junkie” dependent upon chemicals to be green and weed free. These chemicals pose health hazards to our children and pets. The over-application of synthetic chemicals also creates other stress conditions for the turf.
SOIL TOXICITY
All fertilizers and herbicides are water soluble salts. Grass plants are like sponges and will absorb all nutrients available until they become saturated. Once saturated, like a wet sponge, they cannot absorb any more food and the excess nutrients, as much as 60%, will become nutrient run off that pollutes our underground water supply, or will remain tied up in the soil as a salt. This salt build-up prevents the roots from penetrating the soil begin to feed at the surface of the lawn causing a compact soil and mat and thatch.
SOIL COMPACTION
Ideally, a “friable” soil is composed of 45% minerals, 5% organic matter, 25% air and 25% water. Roots in the soil decompose to form the organic matter that is the glue that holds the air and water in the soil. Without organic matter, the soil readily compacts CORE AERATION MYTH “Core aeration is not a solution,” states Malantis. Soil compaction takes place deep in the soil as clay, silt, and sand, lacking organic matter, begins to stratify. When you core aerate you will bring up soil cores that contain weed seeds. Once exposed to surface heat and moisture the weed seeds germinate and grow requiring a chemical herbicide to control them.
MAT AND THATCH
The compact soil now has forced the roots to feed at the surface of the lawn. This mass of roots at the surface is called mat & thatch. Mat & thatch has a number of negative impacts on lawns. First: Mat and thatch limit the rhizome growth and result in a thin lawn. Secondly, weed seeds wilL germinate more readily in a thin sparse lawn, Thirdly: Mat & thatch becomes a breeding ground for insects and disease, DETHATCHING MYTH. Dethatching is another myth that Malantis attacks. “Thatch, as we said before is organic matter. Thatch should be decomposed with enzymes and returned to the soil, not removed to a waste dump.”
ORGANIC-BASED SOLUTIONS
The Millennium Probiotic Lawn Care program uses natural-organic and bio-based formulations to accomplish in three years what it would normally take Mother Nature on hundred years to accomplish. They consist of: Catalytic enzymes which reduce and cleanse the soil of Chemicals; Enzymes that open tight soils and encourage the penetration of air, water and nutrients to stimulate deeper natural root growth; Hormones, minerals that will encourage the plant to heal from wounds and grow aggressively to fill in bare, thin areas, and form dense grass growth; Microorganisms which give life back to soil, promote natural decomposition of mat & thatch, and provide the energy which encourages aggressive root, foliar and rhizome growth; Balanced nutrients that encourage strong turf grass growth while creating an environment not suitable for weed growth.
NATURE’S RHYTHM
“Following Mother Nature’s Rhythm is very critical,” states Malantis. “Each season presents a different set of weather conditions and opportunities that the homeowner should be aware of.
MOWING
Nutrients are converted to food in the leaf by the sun. Photosynthesis- Mowing too short reduces the food supply to the plant. A longer blade also shades and cools the soil, preventing weed germination. Adjust your lawn mower to its highest or second highest level and never cut more that 1/3 off of the blade at a time, avoiding the possibility of the lawn going into shock. It’s better to mow more often and leave the grass clippings on the lawn to decompose and return to the soil as organic matter. Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings decompose rapidly, and do not contribute to mat and thatch.
WATERING
Regular water saturation of the soil is a necessity for deep root growth. Frequent, light watering will result in shallow roots. It is recommended to water about one inch on the surface of the lawn. This can be measured by setting a rain gauge or coffee can on the lawn and timing how long it takes to fill to a one inch level. Lawns should be watered once a week through out the growing season or more frequently if weather is extremely hot for long periods. During dry spells if the lawn cannot be watered regularly, it is better to let lawn go dormant rather than water infrequently.
“The Millennium Probiotic Lawn program will give you a step-by-step guide to grow your lawn intelligently, and in harmony with nature,” says Malantis.
How To Build Auto Lawn Sprinklers
